Bahia Agua Verde
24 59.866n 110 45.464w
Sunday August 07, 2022
Bahia Agua Verde: Emerald Waters and Giant Peaks
Today marked our longest passage yet, and Bahia Agua Verde (Green Water Bay) lives up to its name! The water here really does have an emerald tint, especially in the shallow areas near shore. We had to do more motoring than we'd hoped, but sometimes that's just how it goes in the summer Sea.
The approach to Agua Verde is impressive - the Sierra de la Giganta mountains provide a dramatic backdrop, rising nearly 3,000 feet straight from the sea. Local legend says these peaks were named by early Spanish missionaries who thought they looked like sleeping giants. Looking at them now in the fading light, I can definitely see why.
This morning's departure went smoothly, though the wind took its time showing up. We've learned to be patient with the Sea of Cortez - she operates on her own schedule. The small fishing village visible from our anchorage is one of the most remote in Baja. Just a handful of families live here year-round, maintaining a way of life that hasn't changed much in generations.
While motor-sailing, we passed several pangas heading out for their day's fishing. The local fishermen always wave, and sometimes they'll pull alongside to show us their catch or offer fresh fish. The sense of community on the water is something special - whether you're in a million-dollar yacht or a simple panga, we're all connected by our love of the sea.
The protection here from southerly winds is excellent, thanks to a series of rocky points that jut out into the bay. We chose a spot in about 25 feet of water, close enough to shore to watch the pelicans diving but far enough out to catch any evening breeze. There are only two other boats here - a comfortable number for such a spacious anchorage.
For dinner we're planning to grill the dorado we caught yesterday. There's nothing quite like fresh fish at anchor, especially when paired with a cold cerveza and a sunset view. The fishing has been good lately - George has perfected his technique with the hand line, though we still lose more lures to these feisty fish than we'd like to admit!
The afternoon light is creating beautiful patterns on the water as it filters through the clouds. We can see rain falling far off to the south - not unusual for this time of year, but it probably won't reach us. The weather report suggests we'll have clear skies and light winds for the next few days.
Tonight's sunset should be spectacular - the clouds usually make for the best shows. We've already spotted several other cruising boats anchoring for the night. It's fun to watch everyone's different anchoring styles - some take forever to find the perfect spot, while others drop the hook and crack a beer in one smooth motion.
I've set up my "office" in the cockpit, where the breeze keeps things comfortable. The Starlink connection here is surprisingly good, though we try not to spend too much time online. It's nice to have the option to check weather reports and keep in touch with family, but the real entertainment is right here in front of us - the changing colors of the water, the soaring frigate birds, and the constant dance of light on the waves.
Later, we might take the dinghy out for a sunset cruise around the bay. There's supposed to be a cave on the north side that glows with phosphorescence after dark. Whether we make it there or not doesn't really matter - that's the beauty of this life. Every day brings new possibilities, and there's always tomorrow.
The evening calls for our ritual sundowner in the cockpit, watching the sky change colors and sharing stories about the day. Maybe we'll hear the distant sounds of music from the village, or perhaps just the gentle lapping of waves against Thaalia's hull. Either way, it's perfect.