Bahia San Francisquito
28° 26.193'N, 112° 51.695’W
August 18, 2022
Bahia San Francisquito: A Symphony of Night and Day
Night sailing carries its own enchantment, a special kind of magic that wraps around you like a velvet cloak. We departed Santa Rosalia at 8 PM, timing our exit to catch the southeast winds and north-flowing tides – nature's perfect combination that creates an invisible conveyor belt across the Sea of Cortez. The lights of the old mining town faded behind us as Thaalia slipped into the gathering darkness.
The wind proved to be a fickle companion throughout the night, changing direction and intensity like a temperamental dance partner. We started on a close haul making 3 knots, our sails taught against the evening breeze. By 10 PM, we found ourselves wing-and-wing, Thaalia's sails spread wide like an albatross soaring through the darkness. When our speed dropped to a mere 2 knots, we reluctantly fired up the engine. But the Sea of Cortez wasn't finished with us – at 3 AM, the wind shifted again, and suddenly we were on a close reach, spray flying as we hit speeds over 6 knots. The exhilaration of fast night sailing had us grinning despite our fatigue.
Night watches brought unexpected gifts: phosphorescence sparkled in our wake like scattered diamonds, while shooting stars painted bright streaks across the black canvas above. The solitude was profound – just us, Thaalia, and the endless sea and sky. I kept watch while George caught some sleep, then we switched. The rhythm of watches helped the hours flow by, marked by cups of coffee and quiet conversation.
Dawn brought a surprise – a distinct chill in the northerly winds, unexpected for August in these waters. But as the sun rose and the desert awakened, the temperature climbed quickly. That's the nature of the Sea of Cortez, full of contrasts and quick changes that keep sailors humble and alert.
By mid-afternoon, we approached Bahia San Francisquito. The rugged desert hills surrounding the bay seemed to shift colors with each passing cloud – rust red, sandy gold, deep purple in the shadows. Finding the right spot to anchor proved challenging; the rocky bottom meant our first attempt didn't set well. George's favorite saying rang true: "If you never have to reset your anchor, you're not exploring enough new places!" Our second attempt caught firmly, and finally, we could relax.
After securing Thaalia, we mixed our traditional "rum and yellow shit" . The remote beauty of this bay settled around us like a peaceful blanket. No cell service meant no distractions from the natural world. A few fishing pangas worked the deeper waters near sunset, their crews moving with the practiced efficiency that comes from generations of local knowledge. We watched, mesmerized by their skill and harmony with the sea.
The afternoon heat gradually gave way to a gentle evening breeze. I set up my camera, hoping to capture the spectacular sunset that was developing. Layer upon layer of orange and purple painted the scattered clouds, while frigate birds glided overhead, their distinctive silhouettes dark against the colorful sky. The light changed moment by moment, each second offering a new composition of color and shadow.
Even though we planned just one night here, sometimes these brief stops leave the deepest impressions. As darkness fell, the stars emerged in force – no competition from artificial light meant the Milky Way spread across the sky in all its glory. We enjoyed a simple dinner in the cockpit: George's famous rice and beans, enhanced by the leftover sauce from his latest pizza experiment.
The night brought complete silence, broken only by the gentle lap of water against Thaalia's hull and the occasional splash of a jumping fish. We sat in the cockpit, reflecting on our night passage and the beauty of this hidden corner of Baja. From the challenging sail through darkness to the rewarding arrival in this pristine bay, every moment added another chapter to our Sea of Cortez adventure.
Tomorrow we'd move on, but for now, we savored the tranquility of Bahia San Francisquito. The remote location, the interplay of desert and sea, the absence of modern distractions – it all combined to create something magical. These are the moments we dreamed about during our planning months in La Paz, the reasons we chose this cruising life.
As we prepared for sleep, the gentle rocking of Thaalia and the whisper of the evening breeze provided the perfect lullaby. Another day in paradise, another beautiful anchorage, another reminder of why we fell in love with the Sea of Cortez. Sometimes the best stops are the unplanned ones, where nature's simple beauty leaves an indelible mark on your soul.