Caleta Nopolo

24 59.866n 110 45.464w

Thursday Aug 04, 2022

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Living the Dream: Our Night at Caleta Nopolo

There's something magical about waking up to a mirror-calm sea. Our planned early departure from Isla San Francisco West turned into a leisurely morning - and that's exactly what the cruising life is all about! When there's no wind, why rush? Besides, the sunrise over the Sea of Cortez was putting on quite a show, painting the sky in layers of purple and orange.

This little corner of the world has such an interesting history. Local fishermen tell stories about pearl divers who once worked these waters, searching for black pearls that made this region famous in the early 1900s. While those days are long gone, you can still feel the history in the weathered cliffs and quiet coves.

Instead of our original 51-mile plan to head east of San Jose, we made the call to sail along the Baja mainland. One of the best things about this lifestyle is the freedom to change plans based on weather, whims, or simply because a better option presents itself. We chose Nopolo, just over 15 miles away - perfect for a relaxed day on the water.

The morning passed slowly, with George and I enjoying coffee in the cockpit while watching pelicans dive for their breakfast. Around mid-morning, we finally weighed anchor and motored out into the glassy sea. The water was so clear I could see fish darting beneath Thaalia's hull.

After lunch, the easterlies finally kicked in - a common pattern here in the summer months. The wind filled our sails, and Thaalia responded beautifully on a reach toward Nopolo. The afternoon sun turned the water into a sheet of diamonds, and we spotted a pod of dolphins playing in our bow wave. They stayed with us for nearly twenty minutes, their sleek bodies gliding effortlessly through the blue water.

We've learned that sailing in the Sea of Cortez is all about timing. The local weather patterns are pretty consistent in summer: calm mornings, afternoon breezes, and occasionally some exciting evening winds. Today was textbook perfect - just enough wind to make for pleasant sailing without any stress.

As we approached Nopolo, the scenery took our breath away. The rocky coastline here is dotted with caves and inlets, carved by centuries of waves. The late afternoon sun cast long shadows across the red-brown cliffs, creating an ever-changing light show. We dropped anchor well before sunset, having the entire cove to ourselves - a rare treat!

The solitude here is incredible. No cell service, no other boats, just the sound of waves gently lapping against Thaalia's hull and seabirds calling overhead. After setting the anchor, I jumped in for a refreshing swim. The water temperature is perfect this time of year, around 84 degrees - like swimming in silk.

For dinner, we grilled fresh vegetables and fish we'd caught the day before, enjoying our meal in the cockpit while watching the sun sink into the sea. As darkness fell, the stars began to appear - so many stars! Without any light pollution, the Milky Way spreads across the sky like a river of diamonds.

We're planning to stay here tomorrow, maybe do some exploring in the dinghy.

Tonight, the gentle rocking of Thaalia and the soft sound of wavelets against the hull will lull us to sleep. These are the moments we dreamed about during all those years of planning this adventure. Sometimes I have to pinch myself to believe we're really here, living this life.

The forecast shows light winds again for tomorrow morning - perfect for a lazy start to the day. Maybe we'll see some rays gliding by during my morning coffee. That's another thing about cruising life - you never know what each day might bring, but it's almost always something wonderful.

Time to head below and grab my book. The evening breeze is perfect, and I've got a comfy spot in the cockpit calling my name. These quiet evenings at anchor are pure magic.