Honeymoon Cove

25 48.555n 111 15.462w

Monday Aug 08, 2022

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Finding Paradise at Honeymoon Cove, Isla Danzante

There's something magical about waking up to a mirror-calm sea, and that's exactly how our day began. The Sea of Cortez lay before us like polished glass, reflecting the early morning sky in perfect detail. While sailors generally pray for wind, these glassy conditions made navigation through the complex maze of rocks and reefs around Isla Danzante much less stressful.

The morning's fishing brought excitement to our slow motor north. Our hand line proved productive, scoring us three hits! The second, a bonita, got a quick release - while they're fun to catch, they're not the best eating. The third... well, let's just say the challenging navigation through the rock gardens of the coastline divided our attention at the wrong moment. Finally, a beautiful dorado, made it into our cooler.

Speaking of navigation, here's a tip for anyone sailing Mexican waters: treat your charts as suggestions rather than gospel. We've learned that some areas can be off by a considerable margin, so we always keep a careful watch and never rely solely on electronic charts. The strong currents in this area add another layer of complexity to the navigation puzzle.

Our original plan had been to anchor north of Puerto Escondido, but Honeymoon Cove on Isla Danzante beckoned like a siren's call. It's actually a series of three small coves, each with its own character, protected by reefs extending from both sides. The approach requires attention - the depth changes dramatically, dropping from 50 feet to 20 feet in the space of a boat length. Any hesitation in stopping could result in an unwanted meeting with the bottom!

We chose the middle cove, arguably the most protected of the three. The water color here is extraordinary - the rapid depth change creates a gradient from deep blue to turquoise that would make a Caribbean beach jealous. Being first to arrive gave us the prime anchoring spot, which we appreciated later when two powerboats arrived and had to settle for deeper water behind us.

The geological formation of Isla Danzante tells an ancient story. The island was named by Spanish explorers who thought the irregular peaks resembled dancers frozen in stone. Local indigenous Cochimí peoples had their own names and legends about the island, viewing it as a sacred place where the spirits of the sea and land met.

After getting settled, I couldn't resist the call of the crystal-clear water. My post-anchoring swim has become a daily ritual, but today's was special. The water temperature was perfect - around 85 degrees - and the visibility seemed endless. Later, after dinner, I completed my daily exercise routine of swimming laps around Thaalia. I'm up to 25 laps now, and each circuit gives me a different view of this stunning anchorage.

One of the challenges of living aboard in the Sea of Cortez during summer is managing the heat. I've developed my own solution - a mobile "office" on deck, protected by strategically placed sheets that create shade while allowing the breeze to flow through. Setting up my workspace requires careful planning given Thaalia's narrow beam - at just 10 feet wide, there's precious little flat space on the cabin top. Everything has to be secured against unexpected gusts or wake from passing boats.

My office setup might look precarious to landlubbers, but it works perfectly for me. The Starlink antenna keeps me connected to the outside world just enough to get my work done, while the surrounding views remind me why

we chose this lifestyle. There's something surreal about answering emails while watching pelicans dive for their dinner just yards away.

As evening approached, the light changed, casting long shadows across the rocky cliffs that embrace the cove. The noise from our powerboat neighbors gradually subsided, replaced by the gentle sound of wavelets against the hull. A family of frigatebirds wheeled overhead, their distinctive silhouettes dark against the deepening sky.

The sunset painted the surrounding cliffs in warm oranges and reds, highlighting the layers of volcanic rock that form this beautiful island. As darkness fell, the stars began to appear, remarkably bright in this remote location. The lights from Puerto Escondido twinkled faintly in the distance, but here in our middle cove, we felt wonderfully isolated from the world.

Tomorrow I’ll explore the underwater world around the reefs - local cruisers have told us about the excellent snorkeling here, with chances to see angelfish, parrotfish, and even occasional sea turtles. But for now, we're content to enjoy the gentle rocking of Thaalia in this perfect natural harbor, grateful for another beautiful day in the Sea of Cortez.

From my secure perch in the cockpit, watching the last light fade from the sky, I can understand why they called this Honeymoon Cove. There's a romance to this place that goes beyond its physical beauty - it's in the way the light plays on the water, the rhythm of the tides, and the feeling of being held safely in nature's embrace.