Isle San Francisco

Tuesday August 2, 2022

24º 48.768 N 110º 33.955 W

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Isla San Francisco: Our First Taste of Sea of Cortez Magic

There's something special about your first island anchorage after leaving your home port- that moment when you finally feel like your adventure is truly beginning. Dropping our anchor in the crystal-clear waters just north of La Paz marked our official entry into the Sea of Cortez lifestyle, and Thaalia seemed to settle into the gentle waters as if she too knew this was the start of something extraordinary.

The water here is exactly what we'd dreamed about during all those months of planning - an impossible shade of turquoise that makes you question whether someone adjusted the color settings on reality. At just 15 feet deep, we could see our anchor chain laying across the sandy bottom with perfect clarity, along with the shadows of fish darting underneath our hull.

This anchorage is like a sailors' waiting room for those heading into the Sea of Cortez. Around us, a dozen or so other boats swung gently at anchor - some fellow cruisers preparing for their journey north, others local boats enjoying a weekend on the water. The atmosphere was buzzing with anticipation and activity, with dinghies zipping back and forth between boats and shore.

Our first order of business was to jump in for a swim. After Thaalia’s signature cocktail, “rum and yellow shit.” Always the drink we enjoy when dropping anchor. After weeks in La Paz, the cool embrace of the sea felt incredible. Schools of sergeant major fish circled beneath Thaalia, probably hoping for handouts, while needle fish skimmed the surface nearby. The water temperature was perfect - warm enough to stay in for hours but cool enough to be refreshing in the August heat.

The beach here stretches in a gentle curve, which I decided I needed to go explore. I took a short walk on the beach before returning.

Back on Thaalia, I spent time organizing our charts and guidebooks, plotting our intended route north. The Sea of Cortez lay before us like an unopened book, each page promising new discoveries. From our anchorage, we could see the channel that would lead us into the greater Sea, and watching other boats come and go only heightened our anticipation.

The afternoon brought the typical La Paz wind pattern - calm morning giving way to a refreshing afternoon breeze. Several pangas passed by, their occupants waving friendly greetings. One stopped to offer us fresh fish, but our refrigerator was still full from our final provisioning run in La Paz.

As the sun began to set, the anchorage took on a festive atmosphere. Music drifted across the water from several boats, a mix of Mexican rhythms and classic rock creating an unexpected but perfectly fitting soundtrack.

We enjoyed our dinner in the cockpit, discussing our plans for the coming weeks. The Sea of Cortez stretched out before us, promising adventures at places with enticing names, each destination representing a new chapter waiting to be written. The evening air brought welcome coolness and the sound of jumping fish. Somewhere nearby, someone played a guitar, its gentle notes carrying across the water. A nearly full moon rose over the Baja peninsula, creating a silver pathway across the anchorage.

This first night at anchor brought so much piece. The gentle motion of Thaalia in the slight swell, the sound of wavelets against the hull, the distant calls of seabirds settling in for the night - all of it combined to create a sense of rightness, of being exactly where we were supposed to be.

Like so many cruisers before us, we sat in our cockpit under the stars, filled with excitement about the adventures ahead while also feeling incredibly grateful for this perfect first anchorage in the Sea of Cortez.

As I write this in our cabin, the soft glow of anchor lights reflects off the water through our ports, while feeling the gentle rocking of Thaalia. This is what we'd dreamed of during those months preparing for this journey – pristine anchorages, crystal clear waters, and the freedom to take each day as it comes. Isla San Francisco had delivered all that and more, writing another beautiful chapter in our Sea of Cortez adventure.

As night fell and the anchor light winked on, we sat in comfortable silence, listening to the soft sounds of the bay. Tomorrow we'd probably move on, but for now, we were content in our little piece of paradise, floating peacefully in this perfect crescent of the Sea of Cortez.