Punta Las Animas, West Slot
28 50.315n 113 14.896w
Saturday Aug 20, 2022
Whispers of the Past: Punta Las Animas
There's something magical about discovering a place that exceeds all expectations, and Punta Las Animas' West Slot did exactly that today. As we navigated through the narrow entrance, it felt like we were being let in on one of the Sea of Cortez's best-kept secrets. The dramatic cliffs rising on either side created a natural gateway, opening up to reveal a sheltered paradise that had me reaching for my camera before we'd even dropped anchor.
The morning had blessed us with ideal conditions for the approach - calm seas and good visibility made threading through the slot less intimidating than it might have been. Still, I both held my breath a bit as we made our way in, the steep walls of rock seeming to watch our progress. The chart plotter showed plenty of depth, but there's always something about navigating narrow passages that keeps you alert and focused.
This particular stretch of Baja coastline has a fascinating history that dates back centuries. Local lore tells of indigenous Cochimí people who once harvested mussels and fish from these waters, leaving behind shell middens that archaeologists still study today. In the early 1900s, this area became a hub for pearl diving operations. Miguel, a fisherman we met in Santa Rosalia, had told us stories passed down from his grandfather about the pearl beds that once thrived here. The divers would free-dive to incredible depths, risking their lives for the chance to find a perfect black pearl.
While the pearl industry has long since faded into history, the rich marine life that made this area so productive remains. Shortly after we set our anchor in 25 feet of crystalline water, we witnessed nature's own version of performance art. The afternoon light played across the cliff faces, highlighting layers of geological history in bands of red, brown, and ochre. These cliffs tell a story millions of years old, formed when this entire region was being shaped by volcanic activity and tectonic forces. Today, they serve as home to numerous osprey pairs - we counted at least four nests perched high on precarious ledges.
We took the dinghy out for some exploration, keeping close to the rocky shoreline where centuries of wave action have carved out fascinating caves and arches. The water near the cliffs is so clear you can see straight to the bottom, revealing an underwater garden of coral formations and swaying sea fans. A local panga fisherman passed by, waving friendly greetings and pointing out a particular cave known locally as "La Cueva del Pirata" (The Pirate's Cave). According to him, smugglers used these hidden coves during prohibition to store their contraband.
The sunset transformed the anchorage into a painter's dream - the cliff faces glowed deep red, their reflection perfectly mirrored in the still waters. The only sounds were the occasional cry of an osprey and the gentle lapping of water against our hull. We grilled our last dorado fillet for dinner, seasoning it with herbs, George’s famous blackened fish.
The night brought a display of stars that seemed almost artificial in their brilliance. Away from city lights, the Milky Way stretched across the sky like a river of diamonds, and we spotted several shooting stars while sitting in the cockpit after dinner. A gentle offshore breeze carried the subtle scent of sage and desert flowers from the cliffs above.
As I write this in Thaalia’s cabin, the gentle motion of the boat and the soft sounds of water against the hull create a peaceful atmosphere that makes it hard to imagine being anywhere else. The VHF radio occasionally crackles with fishing boat chatter in Spanish, a reminder that while this place feels wonderfully remote, we're not completely alone in this beautiful corner of the world.
Punta Las Animas reminds us why we chose this cruising life - the freedom to discover places of extraordinary beauty, the joy of living close to nature, and the privilege of experiencing these magical moments that can't be planned or scheduled. Tomorrow will bring its own adventures, but tonight we're content knowing we've found another special anchorage to add to our growing list of favorite spots in the Sea of Cortez.