Punto Pulpito
26 30.916n 111 26.882w
Thursday Aug 11, 2022
Punto Pulpito: Majesty and Mystery in the Sea of Cortez
There are places in the Sea of Cortez that leave you speechless, and Punto Pulpito is definitely one of them. As we approached in the late afternoon, the massive stone formation loomed before us like a natural cathedral, its imposing presence commanding attention against the azure sky. The name, which means "Pulpit Point" in Spanish, perfectly captures the essence of this remarkable landmark that has guided mariners for centuries.
The journey to Punto Pulpito had been relatively calm, with light winds from the southeast pushing us gently northward. The summer heat was tempered by the occasional refreshing spray over the bow, and we'd spent most of the day watching the coastline slowly transform from distant brown hills to dramatic cliffs. But nothing quite prepared us for the majesty of Pulpito itself.
Local fishermen from the nearby village of San Bruno had told us fascinating stories about this place. Manuel, an elderly pescador, spoke of how his father used to hear mysterious songs emanating from the rock face during certain weather conditions. "El canto de las sirenas," he called it - the mermaids' song. While the rational part of me knows it's just wind finding its way through the countless caves and crevices, there's something undeniably ethereal about the sounds that echo off these ancient walls.
The geology here tells a story millions of years in the making. The distinctive reddish-brown rock is volcanic in origin, thrust upward by the same forces that created the Gulf of California. Erosion has carved fascinating patterns into the cliff face, creating natural sculptures that seem to change shape as the sun moves across the sky. At over 500 feet tall, it's an impressive testament to the raw power of geological forces.
Anchoring near such a magnificent formation requires careful consideration. We chose a spot about 200 yards from the point's base, finding good holding in 30 feet of water over a sandy bottom. The water clarity was remarkable - we could see our anchor chain stretching out ahead of us like a metallic snake resting on the seafloor. Several large rays glided beneath our boat as we set the anchor, their wings rippling gracefully as they passed.
The afternoon light transformed the scene into something out of a painter's dream. The sun's rays caught the mineral-rich face of Pulpito, highlighting streaks of iron oxide that painted the rock in shades of rust and gold. High above, ospreys soared on thermal updrafts, their nests visible as dark patches against the light-colored stone. These magnificent birds have clearly claimed the upper reaches of Pulpito as their domain, and who could blame them for choosing such a spectacular home?
As darkness fell, the transformation of Pulpito continued. The massive rock became a dark silhouette against the star-filled sky, while the distant lights of fishing camps along the coast reminded us that even in such remote locations, we're part of a larger community of people who call these waters home. The evening brought with it a gentle northwest breeze - just enough to keep the cabin comfortable without creating any uncomfortable motion.
The night sky here is particularly spectacular, far from any city lights. The Milky Way stretched overhead like a river of stars, and we spotted several satellites tracking their way across the heavens. The only sounds were the gentle lapping of waves against Thaalia's hull and the occasional cry of a night bird echoing off the cliffs.
In the morning, we plan to explore the caves and coves that punctuate the base of Pulpito. Local knowledge suggests the early morning hours are best for snorkeling, before the afternoon winds pick up. The water temperature is a perfect 84 degrees - ideal for extended exploration of the underwater terrain that makes this area so special.
This evening, as I write in the soft light of our cabin, I can hear the wind playing its ancient song through Pulpito's rocks. Perhaps it's the same haunting melody that gave rise to tales of singing mermaids among the local fishermen. Whether natural phenomenon or maritime mystery, it adds another layer to the magic of this remarkable anchorage.
Punto Pulpito stands as a reminder of why we chose this cruising life - the opportunity to discover places where nature's grandeur can still leave you in awe, where ancient rocks tell silent stories, and where each sunset brings the promise of new adventures. Tomorrow will bring its own discoveries, but tonight we rest safely in the shadow of this magnificent stone sentinel, grateful for another perfect day in the Sea of Cortez.